Pterostilbene: the future of youthful skincare
A patented and multifunctional ingredient that maintains skin health against solar damage, environmental factors and cellular aging process.
Unlocking nature’s potential for topical beauty
Through advanced bioengineering, we’ve unlocked nature’s hidden potential, creating innovative solutions for topical formulations. Pterostilbene, a powerful molecule found in blueberries, offers remarkable benefits for skin health, but its low solubility in water has historically limited its use in cosmetic products.
Cocrystal engineering has revolutionized this. By combining pterostilbene with picolinic acid—a natural metabolite of tryptophan—we’ve developed a patented cocrystal, Pterovita®. This innovation enhances the solubility and stability of pterostilbene, making it easy to incorporate into water-based formulations while preserving its potent skin-protecting properties.
Pterovita® opens new possibilities for high-performance, scientifically backed skincare products.
Pterovita® vs. pterostilbene
Pterostilbene is the phytoalexin found in nature – such as in blueberries, deerberries and peanuts.
Pterovita® is a novel, patented cocrystal made from pterostilbene combined with picolinic acid.
The promise of Pterostilbene
Research over the last few decades indicates this special molecule offers a great protection to human skin since it is a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent.
Pterostilbene also activates sirtuins - "the longevity enzymes"
Research indicates pterostilbene can help skin stay smooth, elastic, hydrated and youthful. It can help counter overproduction of melanin associated with aging and environmental stressors.
The breakthrough potential of Pterovita® goes beyond formulation ease and stability. Human efficacy studies and in vitro research have demonstrated its remarkable ability to support the skin’s natural protective and renewal mechanisms when exposed to UV and ionizing radiation.
This innovation represents a significant leap forward in topical skincare, providing robust, scientifically validated solutions to protect and rejuvenate the skin against environmental and oxidative challenges.
Unlocking the potential of pterostilbene in skincare
Despite its incredible promise, pterostilbene faces challenges when it comes to incorporation into topical skincare formulations. Its inherent properties make it complex to formulate and limit its broader application.
However, with the innovation of cocrystal engineering, these barriers are being addressed, opening the door to more effective and versatile skincare solutions.
In 2020, researchers demonstrated highly concentrated pterostilbene could provide a Sun Protection Factor (SPF). However, while pterostilbene on its own in vitro exercised an SPF of 21, its SPF dropped to just over 6 when applied to human skin in clinical trials. Promising, but not there yet…
In 2021, Dr. José María Estrela, PhD, professor at University of Valencia, decided to see what would happen if he made pterostilbene completely bioavailable by incorporating it into a liposomal
solution.
It shows the skin fold thickness (mm) treated with different compositions before (left column) or after (right column) being exposed to UVB. Commercial creams. C+UVB= Control irradiated without any treatment; C Lipo+UVB= Control irradiated wherein only liposomes (without containing any active compound) applied on. RESV= Resveratrol; P+Q= PTER+QUER.
Using a proprietary digital platform, Dr. Prohens’ team identified picolinic acid, a derivative of tryptophan, as an ideal coformer for pterostilbene. This innovative approach led to the creation of a novel cocrystal structure, significantly improving the solubility and dissolution of pterostilbene in aqueous solutions.
Thanks to this breakthrough, Pterovita® is easier to incorporate into topical formulations, offering formulators greater flexibility and efficiency when designing skincare products. The enhanced solubility of the cocrystal ensures better integration into cosmetic bases, paving the way for more effective skincare solutions.
Pterovita® offers the key to unlocking pterostilbene’s powerful and multifaceted skin benefits:
SKIN BENEFIT #1
Helps skin maintain a healthy structure when exposed to UVA and UVB rays
SKIN BENEFIT #2
Provides antioxidant support and strengthens the body’s innate antioxidant defenses
SKIN BENEFIT #3
Helps skin modulate inflammation
Formulating With Pterovita®
- In its raw state, Pterovita® is a slightly yellow powder. Once mixed into an aqueous solution, it becomes clear with no noticeable smell.
- Pterovita® is soluble in water, making it easy to use in non-greasy, fast-absorbing products. It is also soluble in lipids.
- Pterovita® has been shown to be stable as a solid for at least 24 months kept at 25± 2° and 60± 5% humidity. High pressure and temperature as high as 90°C also did not impact stability.
- Pterovita® has been demonstrated to be non-toxic and safe for topical use.> skin modulate pigmentation due to environmental stresses and age