Pterostilbene: the future of youthful skincare

A patented and multifunctional ingredient that maintains skin health against solar damage, environmental factors and cellular aging process.

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Unlocking nature’s potential for topical beauty

Through advanced bioengineering, we’ve unlocked nature’s hidden potential, creating innovative solutions for topical formulations. Pterostilbene, a powerful molecule found in blueberries, offers remarkable benefits for skin health, but its low solubility in water has historically limited its use in cosmetic products.

Cocrystal engineering has revolutionized this. By combining pterostilbene with picolinic acid—a natural metabolite of tryptophan—we’ve developed a patented cocrystal, Pterovita®. This innovation enhances the solubility and stability of pterostilbene, making it easy to incorporate into water-based formulations while preserving its potent skin-protecting properties.


Pterovita® opens new possibilities for high-performance, scientifically backed skincare products.

Pterovita® vs. pterostilbene

Pterostilbene is the phytoalexin found in nature – such as in blueberries, deerberries and peanuts.

Pterovita® is a novel, patented cocrystal made from pterostilbene combined with picolinic acid.

The promise of Pterostilbene

Research over the last few decades indicates this special molecule offers a great protection to human skin since it is a powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent.

Pterostilbene also activates sirtuins - "the longevity enzymes"

Research indicates pterostilbene can help skin stay smooth, elastic, hydrated and youthful. It can help counter overproduction of melanin associated with aging and environmental stressors.

The breakthrough potential of Pterovita® goes beyond formulation ease and stability. Human efficacy studies and in vitro research have demonstrated its remarkable ability to support the skin’s natural protective and renewal mechanisms when exposed to UV and ionizing radiation.

This innovation represents a significant leap forward in topical skincare, providing robust, scientifically validated solutions to protect and rejuvenate the skin against environmental and oxidative challenges.

Unlocking the potential of pterostilbene in skincare

Despite its incredible promise, pterostilbene faces challenges when it comes to incorporation into topical skincare formulations. Its inherent properties make it complex to formulate and limit its broader application.

However, with the innovation of cocrystal engineering, these barriers are being addressed, opening the door to more effective and versatile skincare solutions.

In 2020, researchers demonstrated highly concentrated pterostilbene could provide a Sun Protection Factor (SPF). However, while pterostilbene on its own in vitro exercised an SPF of 21, its SPF dropped to just over 6 when applied to human skin in clinical trials. Promising, but not there yet…

In 2021, Dr. José María Estrela, PhD, professor at University of Valencia, decided to see what would happen if he made pterostilbene completely bioavailable by incorporating it into a liposomal
solution.

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It shows the skin fold thickness (mm) treated with different compositions before (left column) or after (right column) being exposed to UVB. Commercial creams. C+UVB= Control irradiated without any treatment; C Lipo+UVB= Control irradiated wherein only liposomes (without containing any active compound) applied on. RESV= Resveratrol; P+Q= PTER+QUER.

Using a proprietary digital platform, Dr. Prohens’ team identified picolinic acid, a derivative of tryptophan, as an ideal coformer for pterostilbene. This innovative approach led to the creation of a novel cocrystal structure, significantly improving the solubility and dissolution of pterostilbene in aqueous solutions.

Thanks to this breakthrough, Pterovita® is easier to incorporate into topical formulations, offering formulators greater flexibility and efficiency when designing skincare products. The enhanced solubility of the cocrystal ensures better integration into cosmetic bases, paving the way for more effective skincare solutions.

Pterovita® offers the key to unlocking pterostilbene’s powerful and multifaceted skin benefits:

SKIN BENEFIT #1

Helps skin maintain a healthy structure when exposed to UVA and UVB rays

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SKIN BENEFIT #2

Provides antioxidant support and strengthens the body’s innate antioxidant defenses

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SKIN BENEFIT #3

Helps skin modulate inflammation

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SKIN BENEFIT #4

Helps skin reduce pigmentation associated with environmental stresses and age

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SKIN BENEFIT #5

Boosts the activity of sirtuins, the “Longevity Enzymes”

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Formulating With Pterovita®

  • In its raw state, Pterovita® is a slightly yellow powder. Once mixed into an aqueous solution, it becomes clear with no noticeable smell.
  • Pterovita® is soluble in water, making it easy to use in non-greasy, fast-absorbing products. It is also soluble in lipids.
  • Pterovita® has been shown to be stable as a solid for at least 24 months kept at 25± 2° and 60± 5% humidity. High pressure and temperature as high as 90°C also did not impact stability.
  • Pterovita® has been demonstrated to be non-toxic and safe for topical use.> skin modulate pigmentation due to environmental stresses and age
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This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. The described effects have not been evaluated or validated by FDA, EFSA, or any other competent authority The information in this document has been carefully compiled to the best of our knowledge. This information does not exempt from the obligation to identify and control the product in relation to the intended use. Our products are sold subject to the understanding that prospective purchasers will conduct their own evaluations to determine the suitability of the products in their applications. Use of this information is at the purchaser discretion and risk. Local food regulations should always be consulted with respect to specific applications and necessary declarations and labeling. Legislation may vary from country to country. The scientific and techical information contained in this document is intended for its business-to-business use.

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Unlocking Pterostilbene’s Potential with Cocrystal Engineering

In 2020, researchers demonstrated highly concentrated pterostilbene could provide a Sun Protection Factor (SPF). However, while pterostilbene on its own in vitro exercised an SPF of 21, its SPF dropped to just over 6 when applied to human skin in clinical trials.  Promising, but not there yet . . .

In 2021, Dr. José María Estrela, PhD, professor at University of Valencia, decided to see what would happen if he made pterostilbene completely bioavailable by incorporating it into a liposomal solution.

His team applied this now highly bioavailable form of pterostilbene to the test subjects before and after exposure to UV rays. They then used a skinfold thickness test to measure how well it protected the skin. This test is used standardly to measure skin damage since skin thickens in response to injury. The thinner the skin fold after the test, the more effectively the test compound has protected the skin.

When they measured the skinfolds of the test subjects and assessed the data, the results were clear. Highly bioavailable pterostilbene at a modest dose provides phenomenal support to skin in handling UV exposure. In fact, it helped skin weather UV exposure far better than sunscreens with SPF’s as high as 50 and 90!

Triple sun protection that doesn’t wash off

Few factors impact our skin’s aging process like UV radiation.

Unfortunately, conventional sunscreens provide limited protection. They only block the UV rays. Even worse, recent research revealed several chemical sunscreen ingredients may act as endocrine disruptors, triggering a 2021 FDA requirement for additional safety data.

The most common natural alternative, zinc oxide, doesn’t necessarily do much better . . . Some evidence indicates zinc oxide may become toxic when exposed to UV light and actually cause skin damage.

Here’s where Pterovita® can make a difference. As demonstrated in Estrela’s 2021 study, highly bioavailable pterostilbene like Pterovita®can offer photoprotection that outshines that of conventional creams with SPF’s of 50 or even 90! Pterovita® offers comprehensive support for skin, both preventing photodamage better than sunscreens and helping skin recover – something most sunscreens don’t do.

Finally, unlike sunscreens that require constant reapplication to remain effective, Pterovita stays active, supporting the skin’s natural processes and delivering continuous benefits regardless of water exposure.

Pterovita® Helps skin maintain a healthy structure when exposed to UVA and UVB rays

As described, an improved form of pterostilbene like Pterovita® has been demonstrated to help skin stay healthy despite UV exposure.

How does it do this?

Pterovita®’s radiation-absorbing structure filters out UV rays. But it doesn’t stop there. Pterovita® also helps skin handle UV rays by providing antioxidant protection, activating skin cell’s innate antioxidant defenses and by helping skin modulate inflammation. This means that Pterovita® doesn’t only help skin protect itself from UV damage. It also supports skin cells’ capacity to repair and renew after exposure to UV radiation. Finally, as a nutrient that works to support optimum skin activity, its benefits don´t wash off if you go swimming or take a shower. Once applied and absorbed by the skin, its benefits stay within the skin.

Pterovita® Provides antioxidant support and strengthens the body’s innate antioxidant defenses

Inside each cell nucleus, the protein nuclear factor erythroid-derived 2-like 2 (Nrf2) couples to the gene region associated with the antioxidant-response element (ARE) expression. This mechanism is responsible for the expression of many antioxidant and detoxification genes.


In vitro testing shows Pterovita® upregulates expression of Nrf2, resulting in a documented increase in the entire antioxidant-response element of the cell.


In addition, Pterovita® itself acts as an antioxidant, reducing the burden on cells to produce their own antioxidant defenses. When Pterovita® was applied to normal human dermal fibroblast cellular lines, researchers saw a reduction of catalase expression by 32% and superoxide dismutase by 31%, indicating a reduction of antioxidant stress thanks to Pterovita®’s free radical scavenging.

Pterovita® Helps skin modulate inflammation

Pterovita® increases cellular production of Nrf2 and decreases cellular production of NF-kB, key regulators of cellular inflammatory response. 

Additional research has shown pterostilbene helps skin modulate inflammation by helping to regulate the inflammasome-autophagy-exosome pathway.

Pterovita® Helps skin reduce pigmentation associated with environmental stresses and age

Controlling the expression of the enzyme tyrosinase seems to be key in helping skin maintain even pigmentation. Yet identifying ingredients that are safe and work effectively to support this activity can be challenging.

In an in vitro study using Human Epidermal Melanocytes, application of Pterovita® resulted in a reduction of tyrosinase expression by 20% as well as a 15% reduction of melanocyte inducing transcription factor (MITF) expression. MITF is another melanogenesis biomarker.

Pterovita® Boosts the activity of sirtuins, the “Longevity Enzymes"

Sirtuins are enzymes known to regulate cell activities linked to cell vitality and aging. They are ancient in animal evolution and appear to have conserved their structure throughout all kingdoms of life. Pterovita® increases SIRT1 levels which in turn leads to a chain of reactions resulting in SIRT3 expression (which helps enhance cellular energy and supports mitochondrial health). SIRT1 is a key regulator of cell defense and survival in response to stress. It is involved with diverse biological functions including cell development, metabolism, gene silencing, DNA repair, cell cycle progression, apoptosis, heterochromatin formation and longevity. SIRT1 activates pathways signaling increased mitochondrial biogenesis and ATP generation. In other words, without this protein, basic life activities at the cellular level slow to a halt. With it, your cells hum with energy. Research on ex vivo skin samples demonstrate a high concentration of SIRT1 expression in the nuclei of epidermal cells.